I am sure you are well aware that unless
these areas are in sound condition, the chances of failing the MOT test
is considerably increased. Before commencing any work at all, disconnect
the battery. Jack up the vehicle and place on substantial axle stands.
THIS
IS MOST IMPORTANT. Please bear in mind, when working on the passenger
side sills, that the petrol pipe runs underneath the floorpan and this
should be totally removed after draining the petrol tank. Do not attempt
any welding or cutting with this in place as a serious accident could occur.
Also, whilst on the subject of safety it is wise to check for old wax injection
residue, as this could easily catch fire when welding. Remove the front
and rear seats and carpets. Cut the outer sill off level with the bottom
of the doors and cut the inner sill strengthener level with the top of
the holes in the original strengthener as in photographs
1
and 2.
If using a full length
inner sill strengthener repair panel (as in the photographs) you will need
to remove the bottom, corner of the front wing to gain workable access
to the nose portion of the inner sill strengthener. This is easily done
with a hacksaw. Please don't forget that this will have to be replaced
later, but if you find that it is very badly corroded, a repair panel is
available for this section see photograph
3.It is not
always necessary to use a full length inner sill strengthener repair panel
as shown in photograph No 8. If the corrosion has not affected the nose
cone area, then use of a repair panel, minus the nose portion will obviously
minimise the amount of work.
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Photo 3
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Next, assess the degree of corrosion
on the front floor pan section and decide whether it is necessary to use
the whole of the repair panel section. As you will see from photograph's
4
and 5, only part of the replacement floor pan is used.
Obviously, when removing the front floor panel section, this will automatically
include removal of the existing outrigger. This is the perfect opportunity
to inspect and replace them should corrosion have made them impossible
to reuse. However, in my opinion, if you are repairing this section of
the vehicle, it is false economy not to replace the outriggers. Fully pressed
ones are available as shown in photograph
8, in 16 gauge
metal.
The next stage is to remove the affected
area of the inner sill and repair the same, as in photographs 3
and 9 by using a piece of 20 gauge sheet metal. There
is, however, the option of using a remanufactured inner sill should the
corrosion be extensive, or, if you feel you would prefer to do this anyway.
Photograph 10 shows the repaired section when completed.
Following the inner sill repair, proceed
to weld in the front floorpan repair section and front outrigger as in
photographs 5,
6,
7
and 8.
At this stage, check whether replacement
jacking points are required. If this is necessary, fully pressed 16 gauge
ones are available for this purpose as shown in photograph 8.
Photograph 11 shows
the full inner sill strengthener repair panel in position. Accuracy is
achieved by marking the position of the original jacking point spot welds
on the inner sill strengthener, by drilling 8mm holes as a marker. This
method also applies when aligning the repair panel to remaining original
strengthener top (drill these hole at 3" intervals).
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Photo 4
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Photo 5
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Photo 6
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Photo 7
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Photo 8
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Photo 9
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Photo 10
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Photo 11
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From experience, I have
found that the option of panel adjustment before any welding takes place
is imperative where access is limited. The method which I have adopted
to initially locate a panel in an adjustable position is, to drill the
repair panel with quarter inch holes, the adjacent panel with eighth inch
holes (at suitable intervals), place number six self tapping screws in
every other hole, placing a washer in between the self tapper and the repair
panel. This allows the two surfaces to be manipulated into the correct
position. When you are absolutely satisfied with the alignment, weld up
the blank holes, then remove the self tappers and weld up the holes likewise.
I have found this method to be very successful and accurate.
Before aligning the outer
skin sill into position, the portion on the bottom should be removed as
shown in the shaded area on photograph 8. Drill holes
across the bottom of the skin sill in exactly the same manner as described
in the fitting of strengthener (see photograph 11. Adjust
and weld into place as previously described.
At this point you will
need to replace the portion of the front wing which was earlier removed
to gain access, but, if necessary, as previously mentioned fit a repair
panel if corrosion is rife. See photograph
13.
When undertaking sill replacement,
you may also find that corrosion has occurred around the edge of the rear
wheel arch. It is worthwhile considering using a repair section to restore
this area whilst you are in the process of tackling the sills. Fully pressed
repair sections are available for this purpose. See photographs 12
and 13.
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Photo 12
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Photo 13
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The method applied is to
remove approximately 3" from the top flat section of the rear outer wheel
arch repair panel, because in doing so, you will reduce the amount of distortion
in this area. Cut out the affected area to size of the panel you are fitting.
The top edge should have an ½" overlap (or joggle). Weld into place
as previously described. Some people may find it easier to remove the doors
at this stage to allow for easier access to clean and grind flat all weld
points on sills and repair panels.
Use filler to level out
repaired surfaces where necessary. It is best to etch prime all bare metal.
All seams and joints should be sealed with seam sealer to obtain a water
tight finish. The underside should be coated liberally with stone chip
to protect against further corrosion. Paint all other repaired areas to
original colour.
Finally, after painting,
both the sills and box section should be drilled under the tread plates
for wax injection to give further protection against corrosion. This is
most important.
All the panels mentioned are available
ex stock from ourselves. |
